The Ultimate Solutions Of Fishing Boat Power with Details Guide

The Ultimate Solutions Of Fishing Boat Power with Details Guide


Bow-Mont drag motors are designed for marine boats with closed loops. Installation in the transom to the trolling motors simply clamp to the transom and are operated by means of a front handle that serves both the tiller and cruise control. Bow-Mount trollers are either hand-foot or pedal- control, in which case the handle is rear-facing to allow the angler to stand and easily reach the controls. Mounting a bow-mount motor is not difficult, but it is easier with an aid because of weight constraints.


  • Define the trolling motor mount on the bow of the boat. Release the latch on the mount and lower the thruster to walk with the help of your friend. It will be heavy and want to fall the boat, so be very careful with this step.
  • Place the support so it sits in a place that allows the lowering and storage of the motor without contact with the edge of the arc. Carefully locate the mount on the bow. A pencil or dry erase markers works well for this.
  • Remove the thruster from the boat if your mount allows it.
  • Use the mounting template supplied with your new trolling motor. If the engine is used, you must create a template or replace the trolling motor bracket in the position marked on the bow. Using both methods, mark the location of the mounting holes on the bow. These drill with the 1/2 “drill bit.
  • Push the rubber bolt insulators through the 1/2 inch holes until the rectangular headrests against the cap of the bow.
  • Place the trolling motor attachment on the rubber isolators and insert and tighten the screws provided.
  • Install the trolling motor in the mount and tighten the clamping bolt securely.
  • Connect the foot control connector to the trolling motor base.
  • Adjust the depth of the thruster when the boat is floating in water. Loosen the clamping screw on the mount to allow the motor shaft to slide up or down. An adequate depth is generally between 1 and 2 feet deep, but lowland weeds require a shallower setting.

Tips and Warnings-

Tighten the mounting bolts after first use and periodically thereafter.



Choosing a trolling motor is not at all difficult, if you do your homework before you go to the store to buy one. There are several factors to consider in choosing a trolling motor, and it is possible to deal with each issue without ever leaving the house. These factors range from the size of the boat, economic issues and on the type of water you will operate in.


  • Determine the type of engine you will need to troll. Is the boat, a small open boat, like a rowboat, or a big boat like a bass fishing boat? Is the boat light weight? These factors will help you know if you need a bow or array rear engine and its approximate orientation. Measure the boat to determine the length and depth.
  • Know your price range. There is no sense in looking at autopilot trains engines with an integrated sensor if your budget is less than $ 500.
  • Examine where you are going to fish. A quiet, secluded lake will require a propeller with much less thrust than will a lake reputed for wind conditions or a raging river. Overwhelming wasting money, undernourishment can make an almost unnecessary trolling motor.
  • Determine how much battery space and carrying capacity has your boat. The batteries are heavy and take up a lot of space. Knowing how many stacks you can bring to power your propeller will help refine your search. You probably will not want a trolley 36-volt engine in a 16-foot fishing boat, for example.
  • Make a graph of your desired functions and compare them to the manufacturer’s specifications.


A thruster uses electricity and a battery to propel a small boat into the water as an additional energy source for the main gasoline engine. Trolling engines come in handy for anglers who wish to use stealth as a means to sneak on fish or enter a shallow bottom area with no hiccups from the main engine propeller. Silent, economical and maneuverable motors, trolling have gained wide support for use in smaller flat boats, including bass boats, kayaks and rubber boats. Boat owners can purchase kits featuring all the equipment needed to install trolling engines on their open-bow boat.


  • The boat trailer park on a level surface for easy access. Boat trailer and bring home to the carport or garage to avoid accidents on the water. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a stand and a wrench. Open the trolling motor indications and determine where you will mount the foot switch or the manual switch. Determine the area with a carpenter’s pencil.
  • Place a small wick of 3/4 inch marine plywood on the bow. Determine the size of a deck piece you will need by looking at the size of the mounting flange of the trolling motor. Use the carpenter’s pencil to mark the profile of the underside of the bow on the plywood. Remove the plywood and place it on a workbench. Use a jigsaw to cut a triangular piece for the bow. Sub-side the outer edges of the plywood, so the bridge piece will overhang the rails of the bow.
  • Execute a line of silicone glue on the underside, the outer edges of the plywood where it will contact the rails of the arc. Mount the plywood deck on the bow, centering an equal distance all around. Mark four or five drill holes in the top of the veneer sheet with the carpenter’s pencil. Attach a drill bit to a drill motor and drill holes in the rails and plywood. Slide the bolts, washers, into the top of the plywood deck. Secure the washers and nuts to the bolt thread. Screw all nuts with a base and a wrench.
  • Position the trolling motor support on the deck on the side near the end of the rail. Hold the thruster on the mounting bracket, making sure that the shaft and propeller have a clearance to the hull of the boat, and that the propeller extends below the waterline of the hull. Use the motor of the drill and a little bit to drill the holes supporting engine plywood deck, as indicated. Insert the bolts of the kit into the mounting holes and tighten them with a base and a wrench.
  • Trolling, motor battery leads under the lip barrier and connect them to the main battery, using the attachments or alligator clips provided in the kit. Connect the red wire to the positive on the battery terminal and the black wire to the negative terminal on the battery. Mount the foot pedal or the manual control switch to your predetermined location, using the screw kit and the bolts. Tighten the control switch hardware in place with a screwdriver or power socket and a wrench. Reconnect the negative battery cable with an electrical outlet. Operation test of the trolling motor.

Tips and Warnings-

Place an auxiliary battery at the front if you want to use two batteries – one for the thruster and the other for the main machine. Connect batteries in parallel using a gauge wire if necessary. Connect a connecting wire from the main motor battery positive terminal to the positive battery on the thruster. Connect a negative trolling wire from the battery to the battery negative terminal on the main machine. Use cable extensions and eyelets to attach cables.

To mount the trolling motor on the transom of the boat, simply fix with the bolts of the C-clamp provided on the thruster. Cinch the C clamps on the transom rail lip.

Do not install a thruster on a boat that is in the water. You could drop the engine and equipment overboard.


The propeller at the bottom of a propeller is the main component that drives and directs the boat. The propeller can be damaged by pressing shallow bottoms and debris under water. If the propeller is not replaced soon after the damage, the prop will tend to freeze on the shaft and get stuck. Too much time in the water can also cause a prop to freeze on the tree. If the propeller can not be removed by hand or with an extractor, the propeller must be cut with a dermal tool and a metal cutting wheel.


  • Place the trolling motor on a work table with the propeller up.
  • Make a mark on the top of the prop surface directly above the propeller shaft with a permanent marker. Inspect the thickness of the prop between the propeller housing and the shaft. Keep constant control on the propeller shaft, while reducing the prop casing to avoid cutting into the shaft.
  • Guarantee a grinding wheel designed to cut through metal for the dermal rotary tool. Turn on the rotary tool and begin cutting through the prop housing at one end of the mark. Stop cutting through the prop housing, when there is about an eighth of an inch between the propeller shaft and the cut.
  • Continue cutting through the rest of the mark, leaving an eighth of an inch of the propeller uncircumcised.
  • Slide the flat end of a small presser foot into the cup and remove the prop propeller until the propeller splits into two sections. Pull the two sections out of the propeller shaft and discard the cut prop.
  • Use the Dermal tool also cut through the propeller shaft nut if necessary. Make sure that the grinding wheel does not cut in the propeller shaft. The propeller is now ready for a new prop.



The trolling motor batteriescan get under the feet and tend to be bulky and heavy, but no fishing boat should be without one. Trolling engines are quieter than gasoline engines, allowing anglers to sneak up on the fish without scaring them off. Larger fishing boats have special compartments where the trolling motor batteries are placed, but on boats without compartments you can mount the battery in a battery case.


  • Buy a box of engine battery trails in a store that sells nautical accessories. This will keep the battery from getting wet and protecting the boat from acid damage if the battery leaks.
  • Place the battery in the compartment. Follow the instructions provided with the box to connect the battery terminals to the terminals outside the box.
  • Connect the straps and / or latches to seal the battery inside the box. Place the box with the battery inside in a safe corner of your boat.
  • Connect the cables of your thruster to the terminals on the outside of the battery box. Test the connection by turning on the motor to make sure it starts. Your trolling motor battery is now mounted.

Tips and Warnings

Place the battery box away from places where it can be thrown or tripped into the boat. The weight of the battery will keep it in place, but it can also be tied down with sandow.

The trolling motor batteries should be on a circuit independent of the rest of the electronics on the boat. You do not want to use your thruster and find that the battery does not have enough charge to start your gasoline engine.

Be careful not to touch the terminals at the same time, as you may experience a dangerous shock.



A boat battery combiner connects the motor from the battery and the trolling battery in a circular pattern. When the outboard is running, it charges the trolling motor battery. When you turn on the outboard motor, the combined battery separates the trolling battery from the outboard motor battery so it does not discharge the trolling battery. You can then use the trolling motor and its battery without discharging the starter battery when you are ready to return to the edge.


  • Place the combined battery near the starter battery of the boat.
  • Turn the positive wing nut on the battery and turn the batteries on to remove them. Remove the wing nuts directly to the outlet.
  • Place a red wire of the battery to combine on each positive battery. Screw the wing nut on each positive terminal clockwise.
  • Turn the wing nuts on each negative terminal of the battery counterclockwise to loosen and pull them straight out. Pull the negative battery cables each battery. Place each end of a new battery cable on each negative terminal.
  • Place the black wire on the battery combiner on the negative terminal of the starter battery. Tighten the wing nut on the negative terminal of each battery clockwise.

Tips and Warnings-

Measure the distance between the starter battery and the trolling motor battery to get a new battery track that is long enough to cover the distance.

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